The purging effect happens when cells are speeding up the process and those congested behind become visible through the skin with the help of active ingredients like azelaic acid. This acute exacerbation (normally 46 weeks) is noted as augmented lesions on the usual acne sites but is not on new sites as the case with allergic reactions which results in rashes or itching. This process is catalyzed by the azelaic acid serum through norm regulation of the keratinization and microcompedone evacuations, which are the precursors of the pimples. Awareness of this difference will avoid unnecessarily terminating the treatment.
Step 1: Strategic Application for Minimal Irritation
Technique Matters: Use the 13-Dot Method:
- Apply a pea-sized amount of azelaic acid cream or serum
- Dot evenly across 13 facial zones (forehead, cheeks, chin, jawline)
- Massage your skin gently without rough rubbing.
Avoid Sensitive locations: Eyelids, lips and nostrils. In reactive skin, moister should be the first to be applied as a barrier to skin then followed by azelaic acid. This is done to decrease stinging and have an effective result.
Step 2: Frequency & Concentration Control
Start Low, Go Slow:
- Within Week 1–2: Use 10% azelaic acid serum twice weekly
- Between Week 3–4: Start applying every other day
- After Week 4: Apply daily if tolerated.
DO NOT overload: Do not combine with other acids (AHAs (glycolic acid) or BHAs (salicylic acid)) or retinoids in the beginning. Activates like this should also be introduced after 8 weeks of regular use of azelaic acid which prepares skin to be tolerate more harshness.
Step 3: Soothing Combinations to Neutralize Purge
Calming Allies: Pair with:
- Niacinamide: Lessens inflammation and create the skin barrier
- Panthenol (B5): Heals irritation and hydrates
- Licorice Extract: Brightens post-blemish marks and soothes.
Moisturizer Lock-In: ensure that azelaic acid is always followed with a cream containing a high percentage of ceramides. Serum with ceramides in the formulas block transepidermal water, by undoing dryness or peeling.
Step 4: Troubleshooting Active Breakouts
Table: Purging vs. Irritation – Know the Difference
| Purging (Normal) | Irritation (Requires Pause) | |
| Breakouts in typical acne areas | Rash/redness in new areas (e.g., cheeks) | |
| Lesions heal faster than usual | Persistent burning or itching | |
| Resolves within 4–6 weeks | Worsens with continued use |
If Purging Intensifies:
- Reduce doing purging to once within every 3 days
- Swap to a 5% azelaic acid formula temporarily
- Apply ice wrapped in cloth to inflamed areas for 1–2 minutes.
Step 5: Long-Term Maintenance & Results
You Don’t Go Without Sun Protectant: Azelaic acid gel makes you sensitive to the sun. Apply sunscreen SPF 50+ every day because when you have hyperpigmentation, it is important not to sun your skin because it makes the dark spots appear and get darker.
Patience Delivers Rewards: Expect visible improvements in:
- 4–6 weeks: Reduced redness and active acne
- 8–12 weeks: Faded dark spots and smoothed texture.
Why Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Excels?
Meeting azelaic acid guidelines, Paula removed ceramides and silicone oil and added vegan collagen derivatives to help correct the collagen loss. Paula used the most appropriate pH, even adding anti-inflammatory purple rice and super-antioxidant vegan niacinamide to keep skin hydrated. Its featherlight gel consistency sinks in immediately hence the product can be used under moisturizer and SPF.
Pro Tip: To deal with hard to remove marks, add the booster to your moisturizer in a drop or two. This makes it spreadable and still effective.
Love the glow: With clever usage and the fact that your skin takes time to adapt, this little zinc-containing exfoliant is a game changer that does not cause a purge. It is clear now what does azelaic acid do. An additional consistency makes it possible to realize its full potential: the skin becomes clearer, calmer, more even-toned.